All across Europe, the month of November is a month of remembrance for those soldiers who lost their lives during the First and Second World Wars, particularly the First World War. Based off of the poem "In Flanders' Fields", the British (along with some other European countries) use poppies as a form of remembrance and will often wear poppy pins. Similar to this, the French use the cornflower to show their respect.
Perhaps no European country was hit as hard in World War I as England. Although the loss of life was astounding throughout Europe, of the approximately 4 million soldiers that England sent to war, almost 1 million were killed. Many of the soldiers were stationed on the Western Front, in France, so this led to many soldiers (British, French, German, and otherwise) who are buried in France.
I was fortunate enough to go to some of the memorials in France during November. We stopped at Vimy Ridge Canadian National Memorial, Notre Dame de Lorette Cemetery, Cabaret Rouge British Cemetery, Neuville-Saint-Vaast German Cemetery, and Thiepval Memorial.
Vimy Ridge is a memorial to all Canadians who served their country, but it was built on Vimy Ridge because over 60,000 Canadians died defending it. Additionally, the memorial contains the names of 11,168 Canadian soldiers who went missing in France, presumably killed in action. Walking up to this memorial, we were warned to not step off the paths, as there have been many unexploded land mines found around the area. As a visitor, you can see how the war shaped the land here- it rolls, similar to the ocean, and it is full of valleys and mounds caused by the land mines. Trees decorate the area, and sheep graze as a way to keep the grass down and (shockingly) to explode any undetonated land mines. Though the landscape is unique and gorgeous in it's own way, there is a trench that visitors can walk in, which brings home the sense of loss.
Notre Dame de Lorette Cemetery is the biggest French cemetery in France, with over 20,000 individual graves and the bodies of 22,970 other soldiers buried there. Walking into this cemetery, which also contains a church, almost as far as you can see, there are graves. These graves take the form of crosses, and immediately brings to mind the famous line from "In Flanders' Fields": "Between the crosses, row on row, That mark our place". It is one thing to throw out a number: 20,000. It is a completely different thing to see that number of crosses, many still marked with flowers and wreaths.
Cabaret Rouge British Cemetery has 7,655 graves. While it is a massive cemetery, perhaps the most striking thing about it is how many graves are dedicated to those who could not be identified. Instead of a name, their headstones say "A Soldier of the Great War Known Unto God". Oftentimes, those graves that do have names have an age- many of them under 20 years old. Walking through the cemetery, the oldest age that I saw was 45.
Neuville-Saint-Vaast German Cemetery has 44,833 graves. Each grave is very utilitarian- black crosses (or headstones with either the Star of David or the Star and Crescent symbol of Islam). The graves usually have the names of between 2 and 4 people on them. Walking through this cemetery, it was much different than the others. There were very few flowers. Instead, on many of the headstones and crosses, there were rocks places on top of them, signifying that someone had visited that grave.
Thiepval Memorial is one of the most well-known memorials for those who died during World War I. The memorial commemorates over 73,000 men who have no known grave. This memorial, built by the French and the British, is a symbol of unity and collaboration. Walking up to the memorial, the first thing you notice is its immense size. The memorial is usually almost completely silent, and walking up is a very contemplative and somber experience. The huge arches tower over just about everything in the surrounding area, and as you walk through the memorial, there are 73,000 names carved into the walls. Behind the memorial are more graves and headstones: 2 plots of 300 headstones each.
These cemeteries all invoke a sense of loss and respect in their visitors. Growing up in the United States has made me unknowingly ignorant to the impacts of World War I, as the United States joined in 1917, when the war was almost over. Being in Europe, especially in England, for the month of remembrance, has opened my eyes to the lasting impacts of war on a country who sent entire neighborhoods of boys to train, fight, and die together. These cemeteries, the people they represent, and the impact they have on visitors are an important aspect in collective human history. Although it is a sobering experience, I highly recommend that any visitor to France, if they have an opportunity, go see the poppies blow between the graves and remember the cost of war.
